Pucon

Monday 20th December

Early bus to cross the border into Chile. Lovely views of Volcano Lanin at the border crossing:

 

Arrived in Pucon and checked into ´El Refugio´ hostel (7,000 CHP per night). I was recommended this hostel by Patricia, the dutch girl I met in Bariloche. I also met a New Zealand guy James while I was in Bariloche who used to manage this hostel and he said it would be a nice place to spend Christmas.

http://www.hostalelrefugio.cl/

I got an onward ticket to leave Pucon on Sunday night (26th) so I had 6 days in total to spend in Pucon .. plenty of time to see and do alot of things and of course take it easy for a few days to enjoy Christmas. Pucon is very touristy .. the main attraction here is the volcano  overlooking the town .. Volcan Villarica.

My first day was spent walking around the town getting to know the place. Looks like a really nice place. Very touristy but a real nice place to spend a few days. I went to Tourist Information (who were absolutely crap), so I got most of my information from Peter (the dutch guy who owned the hostel). Sam and Marie (from Netherlands and Germany) managed the hostel and were also a great help in deciding what to see and do around Pucon. 

Tuesday 21st December

Early start ... 06:15! Off to climb Volcan Villarica! We all met at 07:00 at the climb centre where we picked up our packs with all the technical equipment needed for the climb. Its not possible to ascend the volcano every day and sometimes a crowd can leave in the morning only to be told later that they cannot ascend to the summit ... it all depends on the weather. On this particular day were were lucky to be able to make it all the way up although it did get quite windy when we reached the summit so we couldnt spend too long up there. The smell of sulphur smoking from the volcano was quite toxic and depending on the wind direction sometimes it could be unbearable. It took us in total about 4 hours to ascend .. starting at the base at 08:20. The climb was good ... and was not too difficult except for the final part which was quite tiring and the cold wind didnt help. Coming down was alot easier ... as we all took turns to slide down the mountain in the snow. We all had water proof gear but for some reason I got soaked in snow and was freezing all the way down the mountain! Was a great day out and despite the price of CHP 34,000 (Appx Euro55) was delighted to have done. I met other backpackers subsequently who also went to do the climb but couldnt as they were not allowed due to poor weather conditions, so I count myself lucky to be able to do it.

Was so tired when I got home that evening.  After going for a nice steak dinner and getting back to the hostel, myself and some friends (Lara and Alicja from Germany and Leon and Judith from the Netherlands) went to the local thermal baths (natural hot springs). Cost was appx CHP11,000 (17 Euro) ... much cheaper if you have your own transport. We spent about 2 hours at the thermal baths ... so relaxing. Could have spent much longer there.

Wednesday, Thursday, Friday  (22nd, 23rd & 24th December)

Exceptionally lazy days ... Lara, Alicja, Judith and Leon all checked out to move on to other places for Christmas, and loads of new people arrived to spend Christmas in the hostel. I spent these two days relaxing in Pucon and enjoying the scorching sunny weather. Wednesday was spent at the beach (Playa Blanca) on Lake Caburgua (a short bus ride from Pucon).

On Thursday I done some sightseeing ... a morning trek to Salto El Claro (a local waterfall about 5km outside Pucon) and Ojos del Caburgua (about 17km from Pucon).

Another lazy afternoon on Playa Blanca beach but it turned out to be a bit overcast. I probably should have done something active like rafting or kayaking but I was so lazy.

By 24th, I had met some really great people staying at the hostel ... all who were staying for the Christmas. The hostel were putting on a BBQ Christmas dinner tomorrow for Christmas day so looking forward to that. On Christms Eve evening, the hostel made lots of mulled wine. Heres a pic of Becks, Gaz and Teegan (from Australia) and Dan (from Canada) drinking Christmas Egg Nog.

After a few drinks, a few of us went to another hostel down the road ... 'Casa Chica' and had a few drinks there.  Not many people heading out on the town ... myself and Gaz headed to local bar called 'Mamas y Tapas' .... good spot with good music, but not very Christmassy although it was Christmas Eve! Seemed to be no closing time to the place!

Christmas Day & St. Stephens Day

Obviously .. I had 2 very lazy days for Christmas and my birthday. Hung out with Crista and Jen (from England) for most of the day. Went to the beach about 13:00, came back and got mass at 15:00 and then just hung out at the hostel. At 20:00, we all met up for the Christmas BBQ. Was great craic ... about 30 people in total ... lots of food, music and drink.

Markus, Christa, me and Jen:

Surprise birthday cake at midnight:

We all went down to Mama y Tapas after the BBQ but it died down after that. Myself and a few others stayed on till closing but the music was crap. Still .. the BBQ was great fun.

Was up fairly early next day as I had to check out by 10am. Felt strange packing my backpack again after 6 days in one place (my longest stay in any one place since arriving in South America). I left my back pack in the hostel and went out for a bit. It seemed like everyone was having a lazy day today so we put on a dvd for the afternoon. Afterwards, I headed out for a bite to eat before catching a 21.30 bus to Santiago (790kms, 11 hours) ... as it was my birthday today I decided to pay the extra for a cama seat (a seat that reclines like a bed). Definitely worth the money .. I didnt want to get off the bus the next morning. Will miss Pucon and the nice crowd I met there ... hope I meet some more nice people for New Years celebrations.

Bariloche

Tuesday 14th December

Arrived in Bariloche ... got dropped off somewhere in the middle of town but then realised I had another 8 or 9 blocks to walk before getting to San Martin Street where my hostel was. I was recommended ¨Hostel 1004¨ by an Irish couple (Ger and Jane) I met about a month ago in Torres del Paine, Chile.

http://www.penthouse1004.com.ar/1004_english.php

Other people had also recommended it to me at various places along the way as I travelled north. I have to say .. its the best hostel Ive stayed in throughout all my travels .. not just the staff, but the amazing panoramic view, the hostel itself and the people I met here. All amazing . and it will take alot to beat my Bariloche experience. In fact if I had of arrived here about a week later, I would have stayed for both Christmas and New Years easily. Heres a few pictures from the hostel .. its located on the top floor of apartment building.

The views from the balcony:

My room:

The view from my room:

Me and the staff from Hostel 1004:

After checking in, I met up with Victoria (who had arrived in the morning) and also Antonio and Rafa (from Spain) and Chris (from Canada). They all had lunch that afternoon but Victoria told them I was arriving later so as soon as I arrived, there was dinner waiting for me! Spent the evening chatting with the guys and we all decided to rent a car the next day and take a drive around the lakes which surround Bariloche. There is a very scenic drive around the ´7 lakes´ which is supposed to be really nice.

Wednesday 15th

After breakfast and picking up our rental car, we all headed off for a our day drive around the lakes. Good fun and the weather was super. Probably not the best to be stuck in a car all day but it was really nice to see the lakes around Bariloche.

Some of the scenery around the lakes was amazing. Was great to have the car for the day as we could make loads of stops to take pictures. We also made a packed lunch and had a picnic by the lake in the afternoon.

That evening, the hostel had organised a wine party. Everyone had to bring a bottle of wine and some finger food. I think practically everyone in the hostel took part .. was a great way to meet everyone. Loads of food and lots and lots of red wine ... so it turned into a good session.

Brian and Rikki from Australia ... very nice couple I met in the hostel:

We finished up in the hostel about 2am and then headed on to the local Irish bar ´Wilkenny´. The place was packed .. and we stayed there till about 4am. Lots of dancing and a great night out. First good session Ive had in South America so far.

Thursday was a relaxing day .. I spent it walking around the centre of Bariloche. Really nice town but quite touristy. I wanted to go to see ´Cerro Otto´ in the afternoon which is a mountain outside Bariloche with great views, but the cable car up to the summit was closed due to strong winds. I wasnt too pushed ... and didnt mind havng a lazy day walking about the town, looking at all the chocolate shops. That evening, a few of us from the hostel went out for a nice meal to a place called ´El Boliche deAlberto´. Definitely the best steak dinner I have ever had in my life! Amazing. Pricey but it was really worth it. (I actually ended up here a 2nd time before I left Bariloche, it was that good!)

http://www.elbolichedealberto.com/

Later that evening, I said goodbye to Victoria who was heading off early next morning to Temuco, Chile as she was meeting a family there to stay with them for the next 3 months to work and learn Spanish.

I decided to spent the next day (Friday 17th December) going to 2 mountains (Cerro Catedral and Cerro Otto) as I heard both of these were really nice and the views of Bariloche and the surounding lakes was supposed to be amazing. I left early in the morning for Cerro Catedral. Patricia from the Netherlands came out with me but she was leaving Bariloche so was stuck for time, so when we got out to Cerro Catedral we trekked up some of it but didnt go all the way up to the top (which I believe takes a good few hours).

After getting back into Bariloche that afternoon, I said goodbye to Patricia who was heading off to Puerto Madryn and I hopped on a bus out to Cerro Otto. Took a cable car up the top (Arg 70$) ... great views from the summit:

Back at the hostel that evening, I said my goodbyes to loads of people I had met over the past few days .. Antonio and Rafa from Spain, Chris from Canada, Rikki and Brian from Austraia, Katerine from England and Ann from South Africa. Although had only met them all briefly, they were great craic and made my stay in Bariloche really good.

Next day (Saturday 18th), I got up early and took a bus out to a viewpoint called ´Cerro Campanario´. Walked up to the summit which only took about half an hour. Views from the top were really nice.

Afterwards I rented a mountain bike and cycled the Short circuit around Llao Llao park outside Bariloche. Its a 25 km cycle with various places along the way with great miradors (viewpoints). Seems to be a very popular route among tourists. Was wrecked in some parts ... the 25km is not much but its very very hilly. Fantastic having the bike as I could stop at different places to take pictures or go for a walk. Much better than a bus tour. I was lucky with the weather too as it was a really hot day. Brought a packed lunch so stopped along the way for food.

Another relaxing evening back at the hostel ... by the time I got back after my day out, everyone who I ghad met over the past few days had gone their own ways, so I new very little people in the hostel that evening. I was leaving next morning so it was ok. I went out for dinner and had an early night.

Sunday 19th  ... Checked out of Hostel 1004. Very sad to leave this place and the great staff. I even got a box of chocolate from them before I left. Will miss this place and would love to come back again depending on how the rest of my trip goes.

I took a 14:30 bus out of Bariloche to San Martin de Los Andes (184km, 46Arg$) ... arriving at 18:30. Not much to see or do in San Martin at this time of the evening and I kind of regretted not spending a little longer here to see San Martin and the surrounding countryside (which looked fantastic from the bus journey). I took a trip to the tourist office (which were surprisingly quite good compared to others I have been to) and they rang a few hostels for me and I checked into one near the bus station for Arg53$. As it turns out the dorm was closed so they gave me a private room with private bathroom and a tv (Wow!) for the same price as the dorm. My stay here was only short however as I had a very very early start (05:15 on Monday morning) to catch a bus across the border to Pucon, Chile where I plan to spend Christmas .. lets hope the hostel is nice. if its half as good as Hostel 1004 in Barioche, Id be very lucky.